Ever been to Spain?

Thought you might like this piece I copied from The Detour on Jacks flight club a travel site I follow.

It might just spark your interest in the ‘Other’ Spain.

There’s one name that keeps on popping up in our inbox: San Sebastián. We’ve been a little hesitant to talk about it, though, because we’re just not quite ready to spill the secrets of Euskadi and watch the Barcelona masses swarm.

Okay, we’ll play nice! With some of Spain’s most breathtaking scenery, it’d be rude not to share. But first, it’s important to note that this is not Spain as you know it. 

Church sitting on a picturesque outcrop

That famous Iberian sun, so potent and fierce down in Andalusia, loses its sway this far north. Here, a different force of nature guides the way, the salt-laden breeze of the Atlantic—and if you’re lucky, it’ll blow you straight to the best viewpoints!

Away from the tourist hustle, the Basque people march to the beat of their own drum. Ask any local, and they’ll proudly school you on their complex history, centuries-old traditions, and fight for independence. No small feat, either! Since Palaeolithic times, they’ve witnessed numerous empires conquer and crumble, all the while remaining true to their identity and folklore. 

As the summer capital for Spanish royalty, San Sebastián is superior to any other seaside city you’ve visited, and it knows it. Spend just one hour aimlessly strolling down Paseo de la Concha’s shell-shaped promenade, and you’ll soon know it, too.

Lined with vintage white streetlamps and ornate railings reminiscent of Belle Époque, the promenade captures San Sebastián’s essence wonderfully. Come in September and expect to find the city’s International Film Festival in full swing. It’s basically Cannes, but with better food. 

San Sebastián bridge at sunset

Yep, foodies, this happens to be your Mecca! With more Michelin stars per square meter than anywhere else in the world, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to gorging on pintxos—the Basque answer to tapas. Simply follow your nose, or this map!

Expect a language lesson over a shared platter though, it’s not just Spanish that rolls off the tongue here but Euskara, a language long puzzling historians for bearing no relation to any other living language! 

You also shouldn’t come all this way north and not visit Bilbao! For everything San Sebastián is, Bilbao is not. And that’s precisely why we love it.

On the surface, it’s your average sprawl—but it’s got character in spades. Once remembered as a grim industrial wasteland, it’s now one of Spain’s most vibrant cities, (and the epitome of urban evolution) home to an under-the-radar arts scene and yes, you’ll find a few Michelin stars here too. 

The credit for the city’s rebirth? That’s a big topic. But the Guggenheim Museum gets most of the praise. A work of art in itself, this gigantic titanium structure houses over 600 pieces of contemporary art. 

View over the Guggenheim in Bilbao

Continuing along the riverfront leads you to Casco Viejo, the old quarterIts colourful buildings and historic Seven Streets are undoubtedly the part of town to get lost in. Or you can take a more structured approach on one of the many free walking toursfuelled by, you guessed it, pintxos and a heavy helping of history.

It would be easy to call it quits after a culture-induced coma courtesy of the Basque region’s buzzing cities, but it’d be a crime not to venture further. You’ve got some of the country’s best scenery on your doorstep, including the Spanish Pyrenees and The Bay of Biscay. Rent a car, roll a die, and follow the road. There’s no wrong direction here!

If fate points west, you’ve not only got País Vasco at your fingertips, but also the lush Cantabrian coastline, Galicia’s famous camino and traditional fishing villages, and the refreshing sidrerías of Asturias. The road east opens up rugged coastal panoramas and top-notch surfing spots before a quick border hop into the French Basque Country.

Then again, you could (and should) make your way south to Vitoria-Gasteiz, capital of the Basque region in Spain. Its medieval streets, friendly locals and green spaces are worth the detour. And it just happens to sit on the Rioja Alavesa wine route, too. Come in June to experience the region in full swing, just don’t bring your best summer whites…

Wine stored in barrels

How to reach San Sebastián: Several airports across the UK and Europe offer flights to the Basque Country, however, they primarily head to Bilbao on the Spanish side and Biarritz on the French. The good news is that both of these airports are within just a couple of hours’ drive of San Sebastián.

San Sebastián itself has fewer direct international connections, serving only London year-round and a summer route to Edinburgh. Both routes are operated by British Airways. easyJet run non-stop routes to both Bilbao and Biarritz, while Vueling join them in Bilbao and Ryanair in Biarritz.

From further afield, the best way to get straight to those pintxos is with a connection in Madrid or Barcelona. Iberia flies from the capital three times daily, or you can pick up a low-cost connection with Vueling after spending a few days with Gaudí.

The Author of this piece.

By Kash

Having travelled to more than 30 countries over the last 10+ years, Akasha’s best memories live in the pages of her passport. Currently based in Ireland, when she isn’t travelling, she can usually be found on a hike with her cats.

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